You can solve these problems immediately

Our goal is to solve your problems and questions as quickly as possible - that's why we have summarized the most important questions for you.

What to do if the embroidery file is not readable ?

Help, I can't open my files

You have just successfully downloaded your purchased embroidery files.
Full of motivation and anticipation you sit down at your embroidery machine and then suddenly stop, nothing works.

The embroidery file is not imported.

That's annoying and maybe you're just angry at the shop owner.
I then researched this topic online.
The following interesting information about the topic - embroidery file not readable, embroidery parts left out,
Corrupt files - I came across in my search:

Lots of different machines and all divas

There are machines, for example, from Bernina, Brother, W6 (among others, the names Bernina Bernette were mentioned frequently
Chicago 7, Brother 750e, W6) which cannot read the files. Often they are older too
Machines not quite as good with newer software (if used for digitizing),
are compatible. As you can see, every machine is a diva.

rename files

The Bernina obviously doesn't like the file names! Please name the file name in Windows
to except for the extension .EXP, which must be. You must include all spaces, underscores,
Remove dots, dashes and special characters. (E.g. Owlgross.EXP)
With the Brother 750e, the stick, which is only used for transfer to the machine, can have a maximum of 512 MB
to have. Also, he doesn't like it when there are too many files on it. Please save a maximum of 8 files on it
save with the extension .PES, not whole folders.

Special characters are taboo

Some other Brother machines, W6 but also my Janome MC500e don't like the name
Special characters such as ä,ü,ö,ß, no dashes, spaces, dots, commas (only letters az and
Numbers 0-9) etc. As a result, some things are not embroidered, something is left out
or the data from the stick are not taken at all.
Please change the file names here as well. Use max
only 8 characters for the name. (e.g. Haseei1.DST). Also, only save a maximum of 2 files here
your stick.

Format USB stick

ALSO you should always format the USB sticks on the machine, if that doesn't work, please do it
on the computer. You should repeat this from time to time.
Nevertheless, a file can also be faulty from the outset, I cannot rule out that.

What mistakes can happen at the beginning? Inferior yarnEach machine is a diva and has its own »wishes«. I found that out very quickly. The cheap yarn doesn't work at all on my machine. So I decided to invest some more money. I am very enthusiastic about the Mettler Polysheen yarn. It hardly ever tears, has a nice thickness and a special shine. This yarn is available in countless color nuances, for very different projects...

Conclusion - see what your machine likes, maybe your machine manufacturer also has a recommendation for you. I love to embroider with Mettler Polysheen.

Yarn is tangled in the lower bobbin

You will also experience this if you do not know it yet. You are embroidering something big, maybe a saying, suddenly the thread gets tangled in the lower bobbin, the machine stops. So far so good. It is worse when the substance is more or less "eaten". Then the embroidery picture can unfortunately no longer be saved. So remove it and start all over again. First, make sure you've used the right needle for your project. Take this opportunity to check whether the thread is properly seated everywhere. That was the main problem for me. It is often enough if the thread is not correctly seated on just one device. Then such unsightly thread balls are unavoidable. You should still check the lower coil. It is imperative that you remove all thread remnants and insert the lower spool correctly.

Conclusion – Before each new stick, simply rethread everything as a preventive measure, clean the bobbin cases, insert the lower bobbin the right way around, check the needle.

Lower thread comes up

That got on my nerves. This phenomenon was particularly noticeable when embroidering letters. First of all you have to rethread here and have the right needle and needle size. I use a size 75 for this. Which needle you need also depends on the type of fabric. For example, you will need a size 75 stretch needle for jersey. After I did all this, the bobbin thread was still coming up. That was really hair-raising. Did I mention that I hate reading manuals? Well, I then made my way through it and read it up. Oh dear, the Janome actually has an extra bobbin case for letters and delicate embroidery work, marked with a yellow dot. I changed them immediately and lo and behold... by magic the letters looked really great.

Conclusion – First of all, look through your user manual to see if you can find anything to troubleshoot. Only then do you rethread your machine, check the position of the lower bobbin and insert the appropriate needle.

As you can see, the different embroidery machines require an individual approach to a wide variety of topics. If you follow these tips, you will create beautiful embroidery images.

What are ITH embroidery files ? Surely you have often heard of ITH embroidery files. But what exactly is that? First of all, it is an English term that means »in the hoop« and that means »in the embroidery frame« in German. These are sewing projects that are completely embroidered or sewn with the embroidery machine. However, there are two types of ITH files. On the one hand, those that really do without additional seams, by hand or machine, such as our MuFuTa 's or cup lounges. On the other hand, those that end up being sewn by hand or machine, because you need the opening to turn or fill, such as our Topfi pot holder . In any case, you can conjure up many wonderful things with such ITH embroidery files. They are usually made very quickly, which is why they are also very suitable as a gift. I've even sewn individualgift tags with it.

How are the ITH embroidery files made?

Don't worry, you will receive well-illustrated step-by-step instructions for every ITH. In addition, these ITH embroidery files are divided into sequences. At the beginning, a mark is usually embroidered, on which you then place your piece of fabric. This is then sewn on in the next step.

How do I get pictures on it?

Again, there are several options. There are ITH embroidery files where the motifs are already included. You simply embroider the picture according to the order and instructions. But of course there are also many blank ITH embroidery files because you would like to add your own motif or simply because, for example, our cutlery bags can be used all year round. And since it's not Christmas all year round, we would of course like to give you the opportunity to choose a motif.

Does the embroidery frame remain in the machine the whole time?

No of course not. Since you want to put on fabric, which may also be pinned to the underside of the frame, it is essential to remove the frame completely from the machine's holder from time to time in order to do this. But that's also in a good guide.

Are the ITH embroidery files only for smaller projects?

No, there are also projects that consist of several parts and are then combined to form a large whole. This is often the case with cuddly toys or patchwork projects. The individual parts are sewn/embroidered in the respective frame with the embroidery machine and sewn together at the end.

Is this also something for beginners?

Yes, it definitely is. Especially if you still have your problems with sewing, for example, and the seams are not quite straight, you will be happy with this. The work with the ITH embroidery files is always the same, clean and looks very good.

Is sewing ITH embroidery files less time-consuming?

No, I think it's at least as time-consuming as sewing patterns with a sewing machine. Although experienced seamstresses are perhaps a little faster. You must stay with your machine the entire time of your ITH project .

The frame has to be taken out, the fabric put on and, if necessary, a motif embroidery file added. This requires some attention and, above all, time. Still, you'll love these ITH embroidery files here when you see the great results at the end. And believe me, it's addicting. If you have never tried an ITH embroidery file from our shop , now is the right time to do so. Don't worry, it really isn't difficult and it's worth it.

Why is our tribal embroidery files jumping back and forth?

We love these tribal embroidery files because they are very versatile and can often be used neutrally. Those of you who have already embroidered these will have noticed that people often jump back and forth while embroidering. Sometimes a bit here, sometimes a bit there. There's a reason for that. We always test our embroidery files very carefully and extensively before they go to the test stick team. In doing so, we noticed that it makes sense to jump back and forth more often, since the distortion of the fabric is then less.

This will then be fixed evenly, i.e. not embroidered from left to right or vice versa, but from left to right, from top to bottom etc. In addition, it is less likely that parts will be embroidered together that are close together and often not yet have color change.

Embroidery machines without an automatic thread cutter

This is especially interesting for those of you who don't have an embroidery machine with an automatic thread trimmer . The Probestick team works with a wide variety of embroidery machines , different embroidery frames and also different embroidery threads.

Problems often arise when transferring the embroidery files from the computer to the embroidery machine or the USB data stick , which can render an embroidery file unusable. Only when the test embroidery team and I are satisfied do the embroidery files go to my shop for sale.

I want all my customers to be happy with my embroidery files and to buy new embroidery files from me again.

Which embroidery thread should I use?

In any case, you must use machine embroidery thread.

Today we are going to look at the different embroidery threads. Surely you sometimes ask yourself what one or the other yarn is used for.

Which embroidery thread should I use? A valid question.
One thing in advance: as the name suggests, hand embroidery thread is only for hand embroidery work and sewing machine thread only for sewing machines.

Lots of yarn on the market

There are tons of thread for embroidery machines on the market: viscose/rayon, polyester, cotton, metallic and effect threads, wool embroidery threads and more.
Brand or not, it doesn't matter here.

Not every machine likes every yarn, by that I mean from different manufacturers.
You have to try it out a bit. Every machine is a diva.

Quality is important

It is important that the yarn is of the right quality and that the needle fits.
There are also different yarn thicknesses.

New Brothread 63

However, this strength is not identical to that of sewing machine thread.
The following applies to embroidery thread: The larger the number of thread count, the finer the thread.

Personally, I think the one from New Brothread 63 is quite good (see picture). The price-performance ratio is right.

My personal favorite though is Mettler Polysheen. Of course it's not the cheapest, but the shine is super nice and the thread strength is really good.

It is also available in most colors as an 800 m roll. It's not that expensive that way.

Amann Mettler Polysheen 800 m Which yarn is for what?

Here is an overview and some information:

polyester embroidery thread

Polyester embroidery thread is very hard-wearing and particularly well suited for high embroidery speeds. It is chlorine-resistant and the yarn does not lose its color intensity even after prolonged exposure to the sun. That comes from its high quality.

Because of these characteristics, this thread can be used for embroidery on heavy-duty garments (e.g. sportswear or safety clothing). It is also very suitable for towels.

It is ideal for use with many new embroidery machines that work with a very high embroidery speed of 1000 stitches per minute. This puts a special strain on the yarn.

multicolor yarn

Multicolor yarns are mostly found in the polyester yarn area. With this thread you can set special highlights with their color gradient and spice up a supposedly boring plain embroidery.

multicolor yarn

You need special needles for this. You will soon find an overview of which needles for which embroidery threads on our blog.

Rayon or viscose embroidery thread

Rayon/viscose thread is probably the most well-known embroidery thread.

It is a natural product in which a high-strength viscose filament yarn is produced from cellulose. Due to its special shine, it looks very classy. Another advantage is that this embroidery thread can be washed at up to 95. It is available in strength 40 for hobby embroiderers.

wool embroidery thread

Wool embroidery thread is significantly stronger than standard polyester or rayon embroidery thread. But you can achieve great effects with embroidery.

However, the embroidery pattern must have special properties for this. The motifs must have a very low embroidery density and a longer stitch length. The thread must find its place, otherwise there will be loops or thread tears.

cotton embroidery threads

Cotton embroidery threads are a purely natural product. These are often used for embroideries that should not have a sheen (e.g. cross-stitch patterns or shabby-style embroideries).

You can often get them in size 30, which is a little thicker than the standard embroidery thread size 40.

So you have to be careful not to use patterns with a very high number of stitches. Thread breaks are otherwise the order of the day, and the embroidery is then generally no longer as fine.

metallic yarns

Metallic yarns are covered with a metallized polyester and have a fine core of viscose yarn. If you pay attention to a few things when processing this yarn, you can achieve really beautiful effects.

Metallic yarn snowflakes

As with the wool and cotton embroidery thread, the same applies here:

Not every embroidery pattern is suitable for processing with metallic thread. Embroidery density must not be too high, the stitch length should also be increased and the number of stitches reduced.

In addition, the embroidery speed of the machine should be reduced to the minimum.

Which needle for what?

The offer is huge. But which needle do I need for what?

I was 14 years old when I started sewing. At home we had a Singer sewing machine with a "pedal drive". Very decorative, I must say, but also very robust.

I practiced like crazy on that. But I also enjoyed sewing by hand. In the GDR we still had the subject “Needlework”. There we learned all kinds of stitches, including embroidery, darning, knitting and crocheting. I thought it was super cool back then.

Today there are so many machines of all kinds. Sewing, overlock, coverlock, embroidery and knitting machines. Accordingly, many needles are on the market. Also different brands. My favorite is Schmetz, but you should try it yourself.

Since women can ever get confused. Which sewing machine and sewing needles are there?!

Here I have listed the (in my opinion) most important needles.

Universal needles:

universal needles

As the name suggests, universal needles are used universally.
However, they are mostly used in the processing of woven goods (e.g. cotton).

Since the needle tip of the universal needle l is slightly rounded, it can happen with knitwear that
that holes appear in the fabric because the stitches are damaged during sewing.

Depending on the thickness of the fabric, there are also different strengths of the needles.

twin needle:

I think this is a great invention if you want to conjure up beautiful finishes and hems and don't have a coverlock.

The twin needle is almost perfect for this, regardless of whether it is elastic or woven fabrics. You can also use this needle to create great effects with decorative and topstitching seams.

But beware, this needle cannot be used in every sewing machine. She should be able to zigzag stitch. You can't sew it with twin needles, but the hole in the stitch plate has to be wide enough for the twin needle. There should also be a second twine holder.

The twin needle is available in different versions.

For example, for stretch fabrics at different distances, as a universal needle , for metallic yarn , jeans and recently also for embroidery . Unfortunately, I can't say anything about embroidering with the twin needle, I actually only discovered it when I created the article, hihi. Likewise, that there is a triplet needle. Wow, now I'm really excited.

Here are some sample images.

Jeans needles:

The Jeans needles are very resilient. Jeans are also very thick, solid material.

But these needles aren't just for jeans, they're great for canvas too.

The needle tip is slim and chrome-plated.
In addition, the reinforced shaft of the sewing machine needle ensures extra stability when sewing.

Jersey needles:

I use the jersey needles for elastic fabric types such as jersey, elastane fabrics or knitwear. Although I have to admit that personally I prefer to use the stretch needles .

Jersey needles have a medium ball point that displaces the stitches. The tip prevents stringing and does not damage the fabric.

stretch needles:

Like jersey needles, stretch needles are also used for processing light, elastic materials and highly elastic knitwear.

These are, for example , cotton jersey, summer and winter sweat, Romanit and so on. This needle also has a medium ball point so as not to damage the fabric.

In addition, they have a groove (a small indentation under the eye of the needle) that holds the thread in place.

Of course, the same applies to the stretch twin needle.

leather needles:

As the name suggests, these leather needles are suitable for all types of leather.

The triangular tip makes it easy to penetrate the material as the leather is being cut.

The only catch is that it cannot be unpicked if there is a sewing error, as the holes in the material will not disappear.

Microtex needles:

Microtex needles are very versatile.

They are suitable for fine or densely woven fabrics such as lycra, microfibre, softshell, neoprene, functional jersey, viscose but also imitation leather (at least in my experience)

The tip of the Microtex needles is very slim and extremely sharp.

Overlock needles:

Overlock needles are specially made for overlock and coverlock machines.

Because the shaft is reinforced, this needle is very stable at high speeds. In addition, they are very versatile.

However, since normal flat-shank sewing machine needles can also be used in many overlock machines, a special overlock needle is not absolutely necessary.

It's safest to read your machine's manual.

Embroidery needles:

As the name suggests, the embroidery needles are specially designed for embroidery work with the embroidery machine or sewing machine (with embroidery function).

They have a particularly wide eye. The particularly wide thread channel is particularly suitable for thick threads and woolen threads.

The point of the embroidery needles has a slight ball point. Please note, however, that different needles are used for different materials.

For example, I use Microtex needles or universal needles for embroidering imitation leather. I will write an extra report on the subject of sewing artificial leather.

Quilting needles:

The quilting needle is also often referred to as a quilting needle .

It has a slim, lightly rounded point and easily penetrates the three layers of a quilt without damaging the high-quality fabrics.

The rounded ball point ensures an exact and clean seam appearance

Topstitch needles:

The topstitch needle is also often referred to as a post-stitch needle.
It is used for multidirectional quilting. This ensures that the thread glides effortlessly through the long eye of the needle.

In addition, the topstitch needle produces fewer skipped stitches.
You can use the needle when sewing with two or heavier threads, as well as for decorative and topstitching work.

This needle has a slightly rounded tip and a long eye. This makes it particularly suitable for patchwork/quilting and wherever thick sewing threads are used.

Metallic needles:

The metallic needle was specially developed for use with metallic effect yarns. In relation to the needle size, it has a very long needle eye of 2 mm, which remains the same length for all needle sizes.

The longer needle eye allows easy processing of heavy or double threads and allows the metallic thread to slide particularly gently through the needle.

Thread breaks are thus optimally prevented.

Metallic needles also have a rounded needle tip so as not to damage the fabric.

Super Universal Needles (non-stick coated):

Do you know that? Unattractive glue residue on the needle because you used self-adhesive embroidery stabilizer or temporary spray glue?

The new Super Universal Needle , also known as the Anti Glue Needle, puts an end to that. In the past, these needles were only available for industry, but now they are also available for household machines.

The very best thing about these needles is that they have a particularly slippery non-stick coating with NIT (= Nickel-Phosphor-PTFE). Significantly less adhesive residue sticks to the needle (no needle sticking) and the thread breakage is over.

The extra large eye corresponds to that of a 2 NM thicker needle, which further supports the anti-stick effect (my word creation, hihi). This in turn makes the needle particularly suitable for embroidery work.

The large eye on a 70 gauge Super Universal needle is the same size as on a normal 90 gauge needle.

The special scarf and eye section also prevents skipping stitches.

It can also be used with most materials without any problems thanks to the slightly rounded tip shape.

Since the shaft has a particularly strong, conical shaft thickening, even thick fabrics such as jeans do not pose a challenge.

Notes at the end:

If you don't want to buy all the needles at once, many suppliers also have starter packs. Just look it up on the web. I've found one for you here.

Most of the machines in the home today use flat shank needles.

In industrial machines or very old pedal sewing machines, round-bottom needles are often used.

You can find this information (if you are a sewing or embroidery beginner) in your operating instructions.

What types of embroidery are there?

a) Classic embroidery:
all areas are fully embroidered. (also called full stick)

Classic embroidery/ full embroidery file

b) Classic application:
– the surfaces are inlaid with fabric.
– The embroidery takes place in several steps.
– A border is embroidered at the end to prevent fraying

c) Fringe application:
– the surfaces are inlaid with fabric.
– No border is embroidered as the fraying is intentional
– Tip: please do NOT cut the fabric too short here.
– It is better to trim at the end with small curved scissors

d) Doodle application:
– the surfaces are inlaid with fabric.
– No border is embroidered.
- For this, lines are embroidered that look like scribbles. This is intentional.
– Tip: please do NOT cut the fabric too short here.
– It is better to trim at the end with a small curved application scissors!

e) Doodle embroidery
– Doodle means “scribble”. The embroidered motifs look as if they were drawn (scribbled) by hand with a pen or with a sewing machine
were sewn on or sewn on.
- The outlines of a doodle embroidery file are uneven and mostly look unclean (just like scribbles), but all this gives the doodle
Embroidery motif that special something and is wanted.

f) ITH embroidery file

– ITH means “in the hoop” and means embroidered in the frame more information can be found here on our blog

Doodle Embroidery How do you get great results on your embroidery machine? 5 tips that lead to great embroidery results

Do you know that?

I am very happy that I have acquired beautiful embroidery files. That's where my creative heart laughs.

The download also worked fine. Euphorically I start to embroider my work and suddenly THAT!

Fabric warps, thread keeps tearing, needles keep breaking. Damn!

The first thing you suspect is the embroidery files designer behind it. File does not work or something like that.

I know all that!

But now let's take this apart.

My Janome predecessors of the Janome MC 550 e What needs to be done?

For example , the embroidery files we offer have been successfully embroidered on various machines and also on different fabrics and have been sufficiently tested.

However, it is recommended to do a test embroidery before embroidering on garments.

If you do not get a satisfactory result, please contact your embroidery machine dealer first so that we can solve the problem together.

It may be that maintenance is due, the machine needs to be recalibrated. I take my Janome MC 500 e for maintenance once a year.

Next, you can go through the following instructions piece by piece and thus rule them out as errors.


Here you have to know that the pattern can be slightly distorted with stretchy fabrics . A firm grip and a washable Avalon fleece placed over it can help. I also always staple with my machine beforehand. Of course, this is only possible if your machine has this function.

Warping is more likely on heavy fabrics such as sweat than on thin cotton fabrics. Therefore, the needle, thread tension, fleece and fabric should be coordinated.

2. Yarns

I work with Amann Mettler Poly-Sheen . However, it's not the cheapest. It is also not suitable for every machine.

In any case, it is advisable to use polyester thread (e.g. also from Gunold), as this is resistant to boiling and bleaching.

Unfortunately, I personally have had bad experiences with the cheap offers of embroidery thread. It tears very often, does not cover well and very often lacks the shine. It's best to try it out for yourself, because I'm only passing on my own experiences here.

3. Colors in the files

The colors of the files are chosen at random and can be adjusted or changed at any time.

The software assigns a number to each color, which matches in some formats but not in others. So it can be that with me the No. 1 is black, while in the DST format it is red. We have no influence on that. These numbers are assigned by the manufacturer (software). But it doesn't matter, because everyone wants to live out their own creativity. 

4. Fleeces

It is important to use the right fleece. Also pay attention to the recommendations of your machine manufacturer.

Personally, I like to use tear-away fleece for underneath or the washable fleece. You have to use the washable fleece if you want to embroider towels or clothing, for example.

The tear-off fleece goes well on felt work, bags, decorations, etc. In contrast to the washable fleece, it is quite firm, even hard.

There are these types of fleece, among others

Vlieseline Solvlies

washable fleecesuitable for all materialssoft residue-free washableparticularly suitable for small children/childrenfor elastic fabrics such as jersey, sweat, etc.

Madeira Superstrong 

Embroidery stabilizer to cut offextra strong and softSuper Strong is ideal for large embroidery images with a large number of stitches.Suitable for all materialsRecommended for embroidering with many and dense motifs

Avalon foil

Necessary for fluffy fabrics such as velor, jersey or terrycloth. But also generally recommended to protect fabrics when embroidering. Is placed on top and is water-soluble. There are thinner and thicker versions


Thickness of 5mm is very suitable for small ITH embroideries For larger ones it can also be 1 cm Used for lining, padding Which fleece for what?

Do you know that?

You have planned a special embroidery project that you are doing for the first time.

You create a list of materials and suddenly you remember that you've heard of so many types of fleece.

›Oh dear, what do I need now?‹

First of all, you should know why stabilizer is necessary in the first place.

What do you need stabilizer for?

In order to be able to achieve an optimal embroidery result, embroidery fleece is required as a base.

The right stabilizer prevents the fabric from warping when embroidering and the embroidery image is clean and precise.

Fleeces are essential for very fluffy textiles such as terry cloth products and also for relatively thin fabrics.

There are fleeces for underneath and fleeces for on top .

For perfect embroidery, in addition to the suitable base material and high-quality thread, you always need a stabilizing base that gets the best out of the fabric and embroidery program!

The wide range of embroidery stabilizers offers the ideal reinforcement for every material.

Whether for cutting or tearing, for temporary iron-on coating or as a self-adhesive non-woven: with a stabilizer that is tailored to the base material, you will achieve the best results in terms of quality and productivity.

Embroidery stabilizer has several names

There are several names for the embroidery stabilizer. Some call it reinforcement, others call it stabilizer. This varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

I assume it has something to do with brand names. But that's just my guess.

Here are a few examples.

Underlay fleece


iron-on fleece

How is stabilizer used?

You stretch a piece of embroidery stabilizer, which is slightly larger than the motif, in your frame under the fabric. See also figure on the left.

Fleece clamped in the frame

When you have embroidered your motif, you can simply remove your corresponding fleece. Tearing, cutting or washing out are the options here, depending on the type of fleece.

Which fleece for what?

You can find a clear table on our blog:

Can I resize the file?

Resizing a file will never be satisfactory because it can only be done on the original files held by the creator.

If the file in your programs or
are enlarged on the machine, everything stretches out, since the stitch length and distances increase as a percentage; when reducing, it is the opposite.

The threads would probably get tangled or the motifs would be too tight.
Nevertheless, a file can also be faulty from the outset, I cannot rule out that.
In this or any other case, you are welcome to contact me at any time.

You will then get a new file.

What does Doodle mean?

Doodle is English and means scrawl. It is often used for borders because it has a character character. Also, with such a doodle border it is not so important that it fits exactly on the embroidery. It gives the whole thing an artistic and creative touch.

It is often used for applications.

Why doesn't the embroidery file have a border?

Even if not every embroidery file has a "border" ...
A word on "outline" . I prefer light borders with the character of a drawing or painting, not complete framing. It is therefore possible that the border does not fit 100% on the image. This is intentional. See also Doodle.

If you would like more information about embroidery and would like to buy embroidery files, you can find them on our blog here .

Do you have another problem? Then contact me!

The best and quickest way is to use the form below. I will contact you personally to support you!

your Jana

You can also reach me at

By phone +49 170 42 511 24